The appeal of gel manicures is clear to anyone familiar with the frustration of smudged or chipped nail polish. This technique involves applying gel polish and hardening it under a lamp, creating a glossy, long-lasting finish that typically endures for about two weeks.
However, the European Union’s move in September to a crucial gel nail polish component, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), has led many to question the safety of gel manicures.
“While there are certainly potential drawbacks and risks, truthfully, countless women globally utilize gel nails without experiencing issues,” states Dr. Phoebe Rich, a Portland, Oregon-based dermatologist focused on preventing and treating nail conditions.
Experts concur that adopting a few straightforward precautions is crucial. Before scheduling your next gel manicure, here’s essential information to consider.
The E.U.’s TPO Ban Explained
TPO serves as a photoinitiator, initiating the chemical process that hardens gel polish into a firm layer on the nail. Effective September 1, 2025, E.U. lawmakers banned its use, designating it as “toxic for reproduction” following studies that showed adverse reproductive effects in animals given significant TPO exposure.
Nevertheless, Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist at the University of Cincinnati, advises against alarm.
Dobos clarifies that the majority of research on TPO’s health impacts has entailed administering it orally to rodents or injecting it subcutaneously, which “doesn’t accurately reflect how we encounter it in a nail gel.” Furthermore, she notes, “your overall bodily exposure is minimal, as it undergoes a reaction when exposed to the light from the nail lamp.”
While Dobos asserts the safety of TPO in gel manicure applications, she points out that alternative gel polishes exist without this component. For those with concerns, she suggests choosing a polish with a different photoinitiator, such as TPO-L, a modified version of TPO that is still permissible within the E.U.
Guarding Against UV Exposure
Both UV and LED lamps, utilized to set gel nail polish, have been linked to skin cancer and accelerated aging.
“However, a large portion of the population spends time outdoors without sunscreen,” observes Dr. Michele Green, a cosmetic dermatologist based in New York City.
Despite the short duration, UV exposure during a gel manicure is intense and can accumulate over time. Green recommends applying a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen to your fingers and the tops of your hands prior to a gel manicure, or using opaque fingerless gloves.
“Both methods offer significant protection,” Rich adds. “And at the very least, they help prevent premature hand aging.”
Damage from Application and Removal
Individuals who frequently receive gel manicures might observe nail alterations such as thinning, cracking, weakening, or white blemishes, according to Dr. April Schachtel, a UW Medicine dermatologist in Seattle specializing in nail disorders. She notes, “Many of the very qualities that make it such an appealing manicure choice are also detrimental to the nail.”
This encompasses both the process of removing old gel polish, which requires encasing fingers in acetone-saturated cotton pads and foil, and the nail’s surface preparation for a new application, where a technician might file or buff the nail using a mechanical drill.
“Undoubtedly, twenty minutes of acetone exposure is quite severe, primarily for your skin, but also for your nails,” Rich states. “Subsequently, using a drill to eliminate any residue left by the acetone further harms the existing nail.”
Furthermore, refrain from peeling off the polish yourself. She cautions, “When you do that, you remove tiny fragments from the surface of the nail plate.”
“Once a nail becomes thinned and compromised, no topical application can restore it to its healthy state,” Rich explains. “You must allow it to regrow from the nail matrix,” a process that can span approximately six months.
For enhanced safety at the salon, Dobos recommends asking to view the gel remover’s packaging to verify its components. Earlier this year, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to various manufacturers still producing gel nail polish removers with methylene chloride, a substance categorized as a “probable carcinogen” and .
She advises, “If you have concerns about the products being used, inquire, as they are typically not displayed prominently in the nail salon.”
Avoid DIY At-Home Application
Since the pandemic, the demand for at-home gel manicure kits has surged, notes Schachtel. Although performing your nails at home might seem more economical and convenient, incorrect application can result in various issues.
Acrylates, in the form of small liquid monomers or oligomers, constitute the primary ingredient in most gel products. During the curing process, these smaller molecules bond to form a polymer; however, if uncured acrylate monomers touch the skin, they can in certain individuals.
“This risk increases with at-home applications, as you’re more prone to getting the liquid on your skin or using an inadequate curing method,” Schachtel comments.
An can manifest as painful, detached nails and rashes on the fingers or face. Schachtel emphasizes that since acrylates are extensively used in critical medical items such as bandages, dental implants, fillings, and bone cement for orthopedic procedures, “it’s an allergy that individuals absolutely want to avoid.”
For optimal safety, Rich recommends having gel manicures performed at a reputable, licensed salon. She explains, “At home, the environment is less controlled. There’s a greater possibility of over-application, damage, and potentially increased light exposure.”
Conclusion
Many specialists consider gel manicures to be a generally low-risk luxury, especially if performed occasionally and with proper precautionary measures.
“I don’t advise people to completely abstain,” states Schachtel. “However, I do believe it should be indulged in moderation.”
